13) From the Krautsander Fish Scandal to the Fortress “Grauerort”
- O Peregrino
- May 8, 2024
- 11 min read
Updated: Jun 9
Language: German is the most widely spoken native language in Europe. It is the official language in Germany, Austria, and Liechtenstein, and one of the official languages in Switzerland and Luxembourg.
On a sunny, warm day, we drove with Klaus to the Krautsander landing stage, 2.8 kilometers away. We strolled over the old but sturdy wooden pier and watched the cargo ships, up to 400 meters long and loaded with up to 20,000, often colorful containers, slowly glide past.
Klaus sat leisurely on the inviting outdoor terrace of the "StrandZeit" restaurant and ordered Aperol.
Aperol is a botanical liqueur that’s been made in Italy for over a hundred years. Apiol's key ingredients include bitter rhubarb, vegetal gentian root, and cinchona, a tree bark which gives tonic water its characteristic bitterness. Alongside other fruits, flowers, and plants, the ingredients in Aperol combine into a citrusy aroma that has an herbal backbone.
Huayna wants to follow Klaus's inspiring suggestion and try a fish sandwich. Immediately afterwards, he makes his way to the nearby trailer, which houses a fish stall. His father accompanies him.
Once upon a time...
...in the quiet village of Krautsand, where the sea was as fresh as the local gossip, there was a legendary fish stall near the boat dock. The fish here was so fresh it could practically swim from the sea to the plate, and the locals treated it with the reverence of a sacred ritual.
Huayna arrived at the stall with his father Jürgen, as he approached there the aroma of fried fish filled his nose and made his stomach growl with anticipation. He eyed the menu, which was full of choices like tartar sauce, aioli and remoulade. But Huayna, with a twinkle in his eye and a sense of adventure, decided to swim against the tide. "I'd like a fish sandwich," he said with a smile, "and could I have some ketchup with that?"
The fish was fried until golden brown and served with a variety of sauces - all except ketchup, of course. Ketchup was considered blasphemy, a purple stain on the purity of the delicate flavor of the fish. The mere mention of it made even the seagulls shriek in horror. But Huayna, a curious soul from a faraway land, was completely unaware of the unspoken rules of this culinary temple.
The crowd fell silent. You could have heard a pin drop—or in this case, a ketchup bottle. The fishmonger, Old Dortje, almost dropped her tongs in shock. Her eyebrows twitched as she tried to comprehend the audacity of the request. “Ketchup?” she repeated, as if the word itself was an ancient curse. The locals exchanged horrified looks, and whispers of “blasphemy” and “sacrilege” spread like wildfire through the crowd.
But Huayna was not fazed. He simply nodded, blissfully unaware of the culinary disaster he had unleashed. Old Dortje, ever the professional, swallowed her pride and reached under the counter. She pulled out a dusty, almost forgotten bottle of ketchup—the only relic of a bygone era when an unscrupulous tourist might have asked for such an abomination.
Huayna, God bless him, smiled and nodded. "Absolutely! I've always loved a good fish sandwich with ketchup. It really brings out the flavor."
The crowd's jaws collectively dropped. "Brings out the flavor?" asked a local. "Brings out what?"
Old Dortje looked at Huayna as if he was about to commit a grave sin against all things fish. "Are you sure?" she asked, her voice shaking. "That... is not how we do it here."
The locals watched in horror, expecting the heavens to open and punish them for this culinary crime. But Huayna simply smiled, and gave a thumbs up. "I like it!" he declared. The crowd was stunned. Some covered their eyes, others looked away, unable to witness such desecration. One elderly lady even fainted, her old white poodle also, she lost her dentures as she fell to the ground.
Finally, Old Dortje leaned over the counter and whispered, "Dear, I don't know where you're from, but around here we don't put ketchup on fish."
Huayna, feeling a little unsure, looked at the distraught and frightened faces around him, looked at his father, who just shrugged his shoulders, and back at Dortje, her eyes almost reddened with tears.
"Okay, I'll take remoulade on the fish sandwich."
A deep, liberating sigh of relief ran through the crowd, it was like the calm after a storm. Dortje wiped the beads of sweat from her bright red face and, with her hands still shaking, dripped remoulade onto Huayna's fish sandwich. The old lady awoke from her liberating faint, found her sanded-up dentures and pressed the old poodle to her fat body, where the poor creature was desperately gasping for air.
Good old Klaus, who was still waiting for us a little way away on the restaurant terrace, had already ordered our drinks and was not yet aware that Huayna had gone down in the chronicles of Krautsand with his ketchup-story, a story as fresh as his fish sandwich with remoulade!
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and he overfishes the seas!"
(The Beyond Border Team Wisdom)
A new, fantastically bright day dawned, with a subtle but clearly perceptible scent of a new, not so adventurous adventure: Ever heard of the "Grauerort Fortress"? Neither have we! We found it on our travel treasure hunt for inviting, interesting places on the Internet. Only about 14 km from our hosts' house. Rumble there? Takes too long! To the right of the entrance were a couple of bicycles. Klaus, who reminded us of a mountain shepherd with his trident iron pitchfork and his cheeky suspenders, was already feeding the Icelandic horses. You, dear reader, are probably thinking what a great job Klaus is doing. Well, if you're an early riser and collect 20 kg of Icelandic horse poops every day, you can help him at some point. Back to the bicycles.
"Sure, you can use the bikes," Klaus interrupted his work briefly, "You just have to check which ones still work." No sooner said than done, we checked all the bikes and found two that would last the trip. And off we went!
Our Story:
As the morning sun kissed the sleepy town of Krautsand, we set off on our bicycles, the world still hushed in a gentle dawn glow. The air was crisp and fresh, carrying the sweet scent of summer blooms. Our wheels whispered over the winding paths, the only sound in the quiet morning, as we pedaled side by side through the lush countryside.
The journey felt timeless, each moment stretching with the promise of adventure. Fields of golden grain swayed gently in the breeze, a sea of amber that seemed to dance in the sunlight. The distant hum of life was softened by the gentle chirping of birds and the occasional rustle of leaves. We passed through quaint villages, where the houses seemed to smile in greeting, their shutters fluttering like eyes waking from slumber.
As we rode, our laughter mingled with the wind, light and carefree, like the songs of the birds overhead. The road ahead was a ribbon of possibility, leading us to the unknown, but all that mattered was the present—a tapestry of colors, sounds, and sensations that weaved a magical spell around us. The sky above was a canvas of soft blues and wispy clouds, promising a perfect day.
Approaching Fortress Grauerort, the landscape began to change, taking on a more mysterious and rugged charm. The fortress loomed ahead, a silent guardian of history, its weathered stone walls holding countless tales of the past. The air grew still, as if time itself paused to watch us approach.
We dismounted our bicycles and stood in awe before the ancient structure, its grandeur accentuated by the golden light of the late morning. The fortress, with its solemn towers and sturdy battlements, was a monument to enduring strength and resilience. Yet, in that moment, it felt like a silent witness to our journey, its stone face softening under the warm gaze of the sun.
As we explored the fortress grounds, the world seemed to fall away, leaving just the two of us and the echoes of long-forgotten stories. We wandered side by side through the old halls and empty courtyards, imagining the lives that once filled these spaces. The air was thick with a sense of history, yet alive with the vibrancy of our presence.
We found a secluded spot by the water's edge, where the Elbe River glistened in the midday sun. There, we paused, letting the tranquility of the moment wash over us. The gentle lapping of the water against the shore was a soothing melody, harmonizing with the whisper of the breeze.
With the fortress standing stoic in the background, we sat together, sharing quiet conversation and tender smiles. The world around us seemed to hold its breath, as if honoring the beauty of our shared experience. In the embrace of nature and history, we felt the magic of the day - a perfect blend of adventure, discovery, and the simple joy of being together.
As the sun climbed higher, casting a golden hue over the landscape, we knew it was time to return. We mounted our bicycles once more, the fortress fading into the distance as we retraced our path. But the memory of that morning, with its soft light and romantic charm, stayed with us - a cherished moment in the tapestry of our lives, woven with threads of love, laughter, and the timeless beauty of the world around us.
Visit the Fortress Grauerort on their Website here! (German only)
Life at Grauerort Fortress: A Soldier's Perspective
Nestled on the banks of the Elbe River, Grauerort Fortress stands as a sentinel over the Port of Hamburg. Built between 1869 and 1879, this German artillery fort has been both a home and a place of duty for many soldiers. As one of the fort's inhabitants, I offer a glimpse into the daily life within its walls, reflecting the routine, camaraderie, and challenges that shape our existence.
Morning Routine and Duties
The day at Grauerort begins early, with the first light of dawn creeping through the small windows of our barracks. Reveille is sounded, and we soldiers quickly rise, stowing away our bedrolls and preparing for the day's activities. The first order of business is a hearty breakfast in the mess hall. The food, though simple, provides the sustenance we need: thick slices of bread, cheese, and a hot cup of coffee to shake off the morning chill.
After breakfast, we assemble in the courtyard for morning roll call and inspection. The officers, ever vigilant, ensure that our uniforms are immaculate and our weapons are well-maintained. This routine not only instills discipline but also serves as a daily reminder of our readiness to defend the fortress.
Following inspection, we disperse to our various duties. The primary task is the maintenance
and operation of the fort's artillery. The heavy guns, our primary defense, require constant care. We oil the mechanisms, clean the barrels, and conduct regular drills to ensure we can operate them efficiently. The drills are rigorous, but they are crucial; we must be prepared for any threat that may approach the Port of Hamburg.
Midday and Training
As noon approaches, the fort comes alive with the sound of activity. Soldiers bustle about, performing tasks ranging from cleaning the fort's corridors to checking the stockpiles of ammunition and provisions. We often have tactical training sessions, where we practice maneuvers and strategies for different combat scenarios. These sessions are both mentally and physically demanding, but they are essential for honing our skills and fostering teamwork.
Lunch is a brief respite in our busy day. We gather in the mess hall for a meal that typically consists of stew, potatoes, and preserved meats. The food is nourishing, and we often exchange stories and jokes to lighten the mood. Despite the rigorous discipline, there's a strong sense of camaraderie among us. We know that we must rely on one another in times of crisis, and this bond is forged through shared experiences and mutual respect.
Afternoon Duties and Free Time
The afternoon is dedicated to specialized tasks and personal responsibilities. Some of us work on fortifications, repairing any damage to the walls and ensuring the defense lines are secure. Others take care of logistical duties, such as managing supplies or maintaining the fort's communication systems.
When our duties allow, we have some free time. This is a chance to relax and unwind. Some soldiers read books or write letters to their families, while others engage in games or music. There's a small library within the fort, and it's not uncommon to find a soldier lost in a novel or studying military tactics. These moments of leisure are precious, providing a mental break from the constant state of readiness.
Evening and Night Watch
As the sun sets, the fortress takes on a quieter, more solemn atmosphere. The evening meal is simpler than the midday meal, but it's a time for reflection and relaxation. We often sit outside, enjoying the cool breeze from the Elbe and watching the ships pass by. The sight of the river, with its ever-moving water, is a reminder of the world beyond the fort's walls.
Nightfall brings a change in duty. The fort must be guarded at all times, and night watch is a crucial responsibility. We take turns patrolling the walls and monitoring the surroundings. The silence of the night can be both comforting and eerie, broken only by the occasional call of a sentry or the distant sound of waves. We remain vigilant, knowing that the peace of the night can be deceptive.
Reflections
Life at Grauerort Fortress is one of routine and discipline, but it's also marked by a deep sense of purpose. We are here to protect the Port of Hamburg, a vital gateway for trade and commerce. The fortress, with its thick walls and powerful artillery, stands as a deterrent to potential threats. As soldiers, we take pride in our role, knowing that our presence helps safeguard the prosperity and security of our homeland.
While the daily grind can be monotonous, the bond we share as comrades and the importance of our mission give meaning to our efforts. The fortress may be a place of duty, but it's also a place of belonging. We are a small community, united by our commitment to serve and protect.
As I finish writing this, the fort is quiet, save for the distant murmur of the river. Another day draws to a close, and tomorrow will bring the same routine. Yet, in the repetition, there is a comfort - a reminder that we are part of something larger than ourselves, standing watch over the Elbe, ever ready to answer the call of duty.
Watch the video in full screen here!
Near the Fortress Grauerort we discovered
The sandbanks of the Elbe
are like whispers from an ancient time, where the river's journey slows to a languid pace, allowing the land to breathe. They stretch out like golden sighs, caressed by the river's gentle touch, their surfaces gleaming under the embrace of the sun. Here, the Elbe reveals its softer side, where the current eases, and the water, usually so determined in its flow, pauses to play in the shallows.
These sandbanks are the river's secret lovers, their forms ever-changing, shaped by the whims of the water. In the early morning light, mist drapes itself over them like a lover’s veil, and the world takes on a dreamlike quality. As the day grows older, the sandbanks bask in the warmth, their golden grains shimmering like tiny jewels, reflecting the sunlight in a thousand directions.
In the quiet of twilight, when the sky is a canvas of deep blues and purples, the sandbanks hold the last warmth of the day, glowing softly in the fading light. It’s a place where time seems to stand still, where the river’s stories are whispered on the wind, and where the land and water dance together in an eternal waltz.
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Breaking news! Without censorship, serious,
relevant, revealing and without muzzle!
No subtitles necessary! Age limit: 25! Use of drugs, extreme violence,
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To be continued...
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